Every year, I attend the Pennsic War in Slippery Rock, Pennsylvania. It is a huge Society for Creative
Anachronism two week long event. I go for the second week (War Week) each year, and since the weather
can be extreme and swing from one end of the spectrum to the other in a single day, garb must be
comfortable in hot, dry, cold, rainy weather! I've been admiring the images of Campi's Italian working class
women for some time, and it's finally time to make some comfortable dresses for myself. I don't look good in
T-tunics, and super-fussy garb is not great for camping, so this is a terrific solution.
This dress is being stitched entirely by hand. It is made of tropical-weight wool in a khaki color, interlined and
lined with linen, and trimmed with dark brown bias tape. And yes, I pre-wash AND dry my wool! Better to
abuse it now than have an unhappy surprise later on...
Anachronism two week long event. I go for the second week (War Week) each year, and since the weather
can be extreme and swing from one end of the spectrum to the other in a single day, garb must be
comfortable in hot, dry, cold, rainy weather! I've been admiring the images of Campi's Italian working class
women for some time, and it's finally time to make some comfortable dresses for myself. I don't look good in
T-tunics, and super-fussy garb is not great for camping, so this is a terrific solution.
This dress is being stitched entirely by hand. It is made of tropical-weight wool in a khaki color, interlined and
lined with linen, and trimmed with dark brown bias tape. And yes, I pre-wash AND dry my wool! Better to
abuse it now than have an unhappy surprise later on...
Close-up showing the boning
channels and the outer shell stitched
down over the linen interlining. It all
needs a good pressing!
channels and the outer shell stitched
down over the linen interlining. It all
needs a good pressing!
The outer shell of wool, pinned into
place and ready to attach. This rather
blah color really comes alive when the
dark brown bias tape guards are
applied.
place and ready to attach. This rather
blah color really comes alive when the
dark brown bias tape guards are
applied.
Dark brown bias tape guards stitched
into place.
into place.
Close up showing guards and lacing
rings, spaced for spiral lacing.
rings, spaced for spiral lacing.
Showing the blue linen lining. Still need
to close up the bottom, whipstitch the
side seams closed, and attach the skirt.
to close up the bottom, whipstitch the
side seams closed, and attach the skirt.
An Italian Working Class Gown
Back bodice, guards applied and skirt
attached.
I made a mistake in cutting, and since I
was working from a bare minimum of
fabric anyway (just over 3 yards!), I had
to piece one of the skirt panels. But hey,
piecing is period, and it made a good
guideline for placing the guard!
attached.
I made a mistake in cutting, and since I
was working from a bare minimum of
fabric anyway (just over 3 yards!), I had
to piece one of the skirt panels. But hey,
piecing is period, and it made a good
guideline for placing the guard!
Front, showing slit in skirt. Barely visible
when worn, and will be covered with an
apron most of the time anyway.
when worn, and will be covered with an
apron most of the time anyway.
I got to try this on in its almost-finished state first time today (it still needs the skirt
guard stitched down, and hemming) and I think this might be the most comfortable
garb I've ever made. Pictures of it being worn will be taken probably tomorrow,
when the hubby is home.
Even though the skirt is made up simply of two rectangles, it feels amazingly swingy
and swishy. I will make the armscyes just a wee bit bigger on the next gown, though.
I have hefty upper arms, and these armscyes are just a teensy bit tighter than I like
when worn over a chemise.
So. Sew down the guard, hem it up, and finish the partlet, and then on to the next
dress! Whee!
guard stitched down, and hemming) and I think this might be the most comfortable
garb I've ever made. Pictures of it being worn will be taken probably tomorrow,
when the hubby is home.
Even though the skirt is made up simply of two rectangles, it feels amazingly swingy
and swishy. I will make the armscyes just a wee bit bigger on the next gown, though.
I have hefty upper arms, and these armscyes are just a teensy bit tighter than I like
when worn over a chemise.
So. Sew down the guard, hem it up, and finish the partlet, and then on to the next
dress! Whee!
The dress itself is done, but instead of a partlet, I decided to make a smock with a
ruffled collar. A collared smock will work with my other gowns as well, and a girl can
never have too much pretty underwear! Like the dress, it is all hand stitched. I hemmed
every piece all the way around, then whipstitched them together. I did cheat and use the
selvage edges instead of hemming the sleeves. It seemed like the smock took longer
than the dress! I may make at least one more smock for Pennsic, but I seriously doubt if
they will be hand stitched.
ruffled collar. A collared smock will work with my other gowns as well, and a girl can
never have too much pretty underwear! Like the dress, it is all hand stitched. I hemmed
every piece all the way around, then whipstitched them together. I did cheat and use the
selvage edges instead of hemming the sleeves. It seemed like the smock took longer
than the dress! I may make at least one more smock for Pennsic, but I seriously doubt if
they will be hand stitched.